Not quite sure how a 13 story building just falls over without earthquake, natural disaster, or explosion.  This definitely makes me think a bit about standing next to one of the skyscrapers in Shanghai.  Though, with over 1,000 skyscrapers in downtown Shanghai, that may be an issue. 

http://www.chinadaily.com.cn/china/2009-06/27/content_8330067.htm

One fact that I’ve come to know while living in China is that the Chinese are passionate ‘foodies.’  The day revolves around meals.  The pleasure from vacation depends entirely on the cuisine in the destination.  Luxurious beaches, scuba diving, surfing, cocktails, dancing, adventure – all of these are nice vacation attributes.  But, if the food is not up to snuff, my Chinese friends would consider the vacation a miserable waste of time.  They may prefer a day filled with taking photos of an outdoor mall displaying a new queen size bed and a mascot if it ended with some delicious fresh fish and seafood. 

While I haven’t converted into becoming one of these ‘foodies’, I have listened to enough tales of fantastic vacation destinations to know that Xiamen China is a highly desirable spot to spend a weekend.  So, we set off on the short 1 1/2 hour flight to Xiamen a week ago.  We arrived at night, picked up at the airport by our hotel bellhop holding a sign with our names in Chinese.  Of course, it took a few minutes to realize this.  Nie Nie (our housekeeper’s nickname for my ladyfriend) said she was giving the bellhop the look.  She stared him down.  Finally, he sauntered over and inquired by pointing to a name in his folder in English.  Indeed indeed – that’s us.  A short drive later, we find ourselves on a ferry heading across the bay to a small island for our hotel.  As it turns out, Nie Nie had booked a great hotel – the Garden (forgot the name??) – a large 4-star hotel on a bluff of  the ocean.  Of course, 4-star Chinese is the equivalent to a 2 1/2 star US hotel – like most of my experience, the hotel had all the makings of a truly special place.  However, the carpets were stained reminding me of my moveout investigation sophomore year at Madison Wisconsin.  Not a pretty scene.  The bed, bathroom were clean – and the facility was nice.  Definitely a metaphor for my perspective on China’s buildings, parks, restaurants, stores, and residences – get 95% to exceptional quality, enough to wow, then ignore the details and just do the cheapest thing to finish the job. 

The next day we awake to wander around the small streets and purchase handicrafts (Nie Nie’s passion).  The handicrafts and views of the ocean – especially the close proximity to Taiwan, proved to be a fun Saturday.  The island is famous for hosting dignitaries from history (Richard Nixon stayed in our hotel), as well as being the last stronghold of Chang Kai Shek (sp?) before fleeing to Taiwan.  Taiwan is a long swim across the straits – and the beaches are packed with Chinese tourists lined up for boat rides around the island, wearing orange lifevests. 

But, the local tourists are not here really for the boat rides or the handicrafts. 

They are here for the seafood.  Every 3rd vendor stall has tanks and tanks filled with exotic seafood.  If it lives in the sea, it is available for ordering and cooking.  Picking out your favorite live fish, shark, shell fish, eel, frog, soft-shell crab, turtle, skate, prawns, or lobster is cherished and celebrated.  That night, we stopped at one vendor restaurant to select our live prawns and clams – and donned our virtual bibs to eat nonstop on the sidewalk.  Admittedly, the food was damn tasty. 

On Sunday, we head down to the custom t-shirt shop to pick up our pairs t-shirt (yes, we ordered matching t-shirts with hand-painted figures on them) to fit in with the local tourists.  Admittedly reminds me of the poor guys that each year, as they look forward to going out on Halloween for some party and revelry, come to find out their girlfriend has swapped their gargoyle costume for a matching Raggedy Anne and Andy costume.  The rest of the night of Halloween you spend listening to your friends tease you about your yarn hair, fake freckles, and floppy clothes.  It’s cute.  Well, I have somehow changed from being the guy that teased my pal his feminine matching costume – to the guy with a matching t-shirt.  And, to make it even more ironic, I’m the one seeking it out.  hmm.  Next thing you know, I’ll be singing lovesongs walking down the streets of Yangshou hand in hand with my Nie Nie.

The weekend wrapped up across the short ferry ride back to the mainland walking in the most exotic marketplace I’ve seen in my life.  Everything living and non-living was for sale on the sidewalks.  It was the equivalent to Seattle’s Pike Place Market meets Indian Jones.  Every bird, fish, reptile, and several mammals were available for purchase as produce.  Quite disturbing. 

I once had the opinion that the Chinese eat such odd morsels because China had been so poor in the past 500 years.  However, it’s more clear to me now that it’s just part of the culture to eat the discarded or overlooked produce from Western palates: pig feet, chicken feet, cow intestine, duck neck, fish head, much much more.  When I ask my friends if they would prefer a chicken breast over chicken feet – given that they were both available in a buffet (same price) – many choose chicken feet.  I don’t understand this, and likely never will.  I also don’t understand the enjoyment of eating food with bones and spitting the discards on the table in front of you – a common occurrence in 5-star Chinese restaurants.  When asked why the chef doesn’t remove fish bones, I’m told it tastes better.  hmm.  Alas, I am clearly not Chinese.

I recently went to Moganshan, China with a few friends.  While there, we stayed at the Moganshan hotel on top of the mountain.  Next door, is the Lodge - a cool, rustic restaurant/pub with a fireplace.  Unfortunately, the Lodge and the hotel had forgotten to pay their heating bill...and in both places, you could see your breath!  I don't know if I've ever slept with a knit hat and gloves on, but this time I did it successfully.  The Lodge (www.moganshanlodge.com) is run by a gentleman from Wales.  On his brochure, he has a map of a recommended hike - thru the bamboo forest and along the edge of the mountain range.  Unfortunately, his map is so grossly off, we found ourselves in a bit of a pickle.  After 6 1/2 hours of hiking, we were faced with the reality that we either need to find a taxi in this desolate place or hike thru the evening, ascending 2500 feet or so.  We lucked out - and found a taxi, just as the temperatures were starting to drop again.

The forest itself is stunning - and captured in the flying/fighting scene in Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon.  Bamboo after bamboo and soft leave-covered ground.  In addition, some of the views in Moganshan are breath-taking looking across the mountains.

Interesting article about Obama inauguration coverage in China.  Let’s be clear: it was on at 1am in the morning – and most folks that watched it were expats.  This doesn’t mean my Chinese friends weren’t interested – it was more timing.  In fact, I’m surprised how many Chinese friends have asked me about the new president – and my opinion.  In fact, in general, I believe there is more opinion on American politics from Chinese citizens vs. Chinese politics.  And, without fail, every Chinese friend has mentioned that they believed Bush seemed, um, not smart.  “Ben dan” is the Chinese word for Bush…

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/28768271

The photo shows a Beijing bar with the inauguration.  Interesting that the bar is showing a satellite feed of CNN, yet the article talks about state-run TV, CCTV, making edits to his speech.

With our new found itinerary in hand, we exit the plane after the 2 hour flight from Shanghai.  Oliver is the name of our itinerary's original owner, and thus, the go-to name for the night.  We jump in a taxi after our baggage literally beats us to the turnstile.  "Wow, that was fast," I wonder aloud.  "How the heck did our baggage actually beat us to the pickup?"  hmm.  Too good to be true.  This was like seeing Northwest Airlines give you a free beer on an international flight - very rare.  Very very rare...

The taxi driver is immensely polite and loves the fact that we speak Chinese.  Truth be told, Clay speaks Chinese, and I mumble and stumble.  We arrive at the hotel.  But, not until after the driver decides to skip the roundabout and use the sidewalk entrance to the drive.  Yes, we had to wait for a few bicyclists to clear way, but the sidewalk would do.  After, Oliver is a very important person. 

When I booked the hotel the night before, I had to pick among a dozen hotels close to the Olympic village in a reasonable price range (less than $200/night).  I selected the Holiday Inn Express because I figured it had the best chances of being clean.  No frills required, just clean sheets - not like the Office episode in Miami with the blacklight.  The hotel was phenomenal.  It had a sweeping lobby of marble, an interior courtyard with funky jazz couches and a DJ.  It was like walking into a high end LA hotel - glass and light everywhere, electronica on the soundsystem.  My best guess is the hotel opened sometime in the prior 2 months.  Of course, it wasn't all smooth.

In my haste, I had booked a single room.  One room, one full-size bed.  After 5-10 minutes of teasing and cajoling the hotel concierge, manager, and receptionist, we manage to upgrade to a large double room.  Complimentary.

We drop our bags in the room, and head to the door.  With our MVP itinerary in hand, we hop in a taxi and tell the driver that we're headed to the NBA party.  Of course.  We arrive at the party, and there are a few laowais hanging outside the gate.  We can see past the gate that there is definitely something happening tonight.

We approach the security guard and he asks us for our invites.  Naturally, we show him the itinerary.  The itinerary looks nothing like the glossy full-color invitation around the neck of the person before us.  But, we're Oliver and pal.  After 3-4 minutes of negotiating and ensuring the guard that he is making the right decision by letting us in, we proceed past the gate.  Just need to make sure the guard saved face - and nod reassuringly.  After getting past the guard, we didn't anticipate the next step.  There in front of us is a desk with 2 laowais working.  They have a guestlist.  The party, now booming on the otherside of the courtyard is clearing begging for Oliver and pal.  The laowais, apparently employees of Budweiser, ask us our names.  Oliver.  Pal.  (Ok, i didn't actually say, "and Pal').  Umm.  What's your last name?  Oliver, quick as a kitten playing with a 'kitty gone crazy toy,' comes up with a name like Smith.  The laowai is confused and looking around.  I don't see it.  "Hmm. That sucks, let me call Melissa - she said she had this whole thing taken care of!"  Oliver starts getting a little upset.  "No, let me just check with Justin."  The laowai calls over Justin, the manager.  He suspects this to be a bit fishy.  But, Justin also recognizes that we're also Americans and just ready to party.  "Sorry we don't have the invites.  No problem is we just come on in for a bit?"  Justin pauses.  "Ok, no problem."  Red-White-Blue. 

We walk in past the 2nd gate, across the courtyard, and see a rather large bright red stage with Budweiser everywhere.  Snap Snap a few phone photos.  Then, walk inside.  There are literally 50 different free flowing beer taps, dancers, DJs, couches, the works.  Time to look around for Lebron, Kobe, Tayshaun, and the NBA crew.  Things are going our way.

My friend Clay and I arrive at the local Shanghai airport excited about our departure for the Beijing Olympics. We had heard dozens of friends and coworkers poo-poo our adventure to Beijing.

"You can't go without tickets - they check passport names on the ticket"

"The hotels are too expensive"

"The crowds will make it a nightmare"

"Do you speak Chinese?"

On the last comment, I simply replied, "Wo shi zhongouren" or "I am Chinese".  People never believe me. 

However, I chose not to believe the going Chinese rumor mill translated about the facts around event tickets, hotels, flights, and crowds.  I'm not sure how to explain the culture around rumors here in China - but I think that sometimes questioning the validity of rumors and doing your own homework pays off handsomely.

The flight itself was booked a week before departure - for the standard rate of RMB 1400 (about $200).  The hotels were mine to pick from - the sheer volume of vacancy was like walking into one of the 6-story Chinese restaurants here in Shanghai and worrying about finding an empty table.  I selected the Holiday Inn based on its location.  RMB 1100 per night (about $150).  More about the hotel shortly...

After getting past the first security checkpoint at the airport (at the opening door of the airport), we looked at the long lines to checkin.  Naturally, as 2 Americans having lived in China for a year, we walked straight towards the first-class checkin desk. We were, of course, following our Laowai rules. 

Laowai (slang for foreigner) rules are as follows:

1. Laowais are by default charged more for negotiable goods (rent, clothing, electronics, phones, etc.)

2. Laowais can ignore many rules without being stopped. 

3. All Laowais are presumed wealthy.

4. Laowais cannot speak Chinese.

After checking in at the first class desk and grabbing the exit row (I will admit my proof that I can understand and speak Chinese to sit in the exit row was pretty weak - I feigned being too busy and insulted to bother really speaking about what I can fluently say, "Wo xiang yao yi ping pijou".  "I'd like to order a bottle of beer.") we discover that the gentleman before us had left his itinerary on the desk.  His itinerary includes a location, description, and contact info for a VIP NBA Party in Beijing tonight.  We smile.

A bit exhausted - what an amazing adventure.  I can't wait to upload my photos in the next few days...we were able to go to USA Water Polo's winning game against Croatia (the best victory for USA Water Polo in 2 decades), Track and Field (including Bolt's world record), and the bronze medal Ping Pong match.  More soon...the energy and pageantry of Beijing was fantastic.

Yes, I'm headed to the Olympics!  Last night, I walked over to the Shanghai Stadium for 2 soccer games - and had a complete blast.  Security was tight.  They patted me down in a rather invasive manner...and this was after the police stopped me 2 blocks before the stadium looking for my ticket.  In fact, the security woman at the gates checked my gums and recommended I floss a bit more.  After rolling my backpack thru a full-on conveyer belt metal detector, I entered the stadium with Clay.  Fortunately for us, the beers were only 5 RMB.  Yes, that is $.80 for a cold beer (Tsing Tao of course!) 

2 games : Korea v Honduras -- Korea was dominant but only ended up 1 goal..should have been titled "Korea vs. The Honduras Goalkeeper" and Belgium v New Zealand...should have been titled "My High School Soccer Team vs. Your High School Soccer Team"...ok, that's a bit harsh, but wow was there a quality dropoff.

I also took some photos - will post them soon.

Tomorrow I'm flying out to Beijing - no tickets yet, but we're confident that we can make some laowai magic happen.  I do wish I could have heard a the soft gentle tones of, "Ni huai shuo yingwen ma??" on my trip to the Olympics, but... Wish me luck!  Also, don't forget, .... USA! USA! USA!

also, if you have seen it, check out the opening ceremony...WOW http://www.nbcolympics.com/video/player.html?assetid=0808_hd_oc_au_en198_r1

Shanghaiist: Attack on an American volunteer by anti-Carrefour mob in Zhuzhou, Hunan: UPDATED

Granted, he went into Carrefour in front of a known Chinese protest of the French mega store (France's stance with respect to the Beijing Olympics is getting a bit out of control, in my opinion)... but the guy doesn't deserve to be attacked.  Also, clearly, you can tell the difference between a French person and an American?  :)

The Chinese elevator goes down as one of the marvels of this fascinating culture.  There's so many aspects to talk about with the elevator: as a resident of China, expect to spend a significant amount of time in an elevator; expect to spend it with your nose approximately 3 inches apart from the top of the head of at least 17 of your closest Chinese cohorts; expect to be rather frustrated.

Living in the city of Shanghai, a potential backdrop of Bladerunner 2 (the un-released, never made sequel), I am surrounded by a city of thousands of skyscrapers.  Each of the skyscrapers has a pleasant elevator that is continually tested to the maximum capacity.  First, I've yet to hear that buzzer go off when exceeding the capacity of the elevator.  Of course, maybe the capacities are determined and set by weighing the same number of Americans - knowing that this will prevent the elevator from ever exceeding the limits...but, there is no question that if a person can squeeze into a crowded elevator, they will. Occasionally, I feel so crowded and squeezed, that if I had a mouth full of sunflower seeds before the excess person boarded the elevator, their shoulder jamming into in my gut, I would force a nice shower of seeds across the top of the heads of the other riders.  Yes, their shoulder in my gut - one of the distinct advantages of being taller than the other passengers.

However, the most bizarre aspect of the Chinese elevator must be the logic behind the doors closing.  For example, I may enter an elevator at 9am with one or two other passengers.  The doors will close...nope.  The doors open!  The first teaser.  The new passenger jumps in, presses their floor, quickly presses the 'close door' button and the doors close...nope!  Open sesame.  The second teaser.  Another passenger slides in, the doors close...NOPE.  The doors open.  Rinse. Repeat.  This can last minutes.  If you press the up button on the outside of the elevator, and the elevator hasn't left the floor, the doors will open.  No matter how many times it has opened and closed.  By the time the elevator closes its door, I may just do a twirl and curtsy in celebration and acknowledgement that I can finally go up to my office!

I will say this, I'm optimistic that the elevators are inspected - as they typically ride smoother than American elevators.  But, when a person is getting off the elevator on the 9th floor, can someone kindly ask the oncoming passenger to wait until he exits, instead of shoving into the foreigner's gut with their shoulder to hurriedly onboard?