Kurt Weber

Not quite sure how a 13 story building just falls over without earthquake, natural disaster, or explosion.  This definitely makes me think a bit about standing next to one of the skyscrapers in Shanghai.  Though, with over 1,000 skyscrapers in downtown Shanghai, that may be an issue. 

http://www.chinadaily.com.cn/china/2009-06/27/content_8330067.htm

One fact that I’ve come to know while living in China is that the Chinese are passionate ‘foodies.’  The day revolves around meals.  The pleasure from vacation depends entirely on the cuisine in the destination.  Luxurious beaches, scuba diving, surfing, cocktails, dancing, adventure – all of these are nice vacation attributes.  But, if the food is not up to snuff, my Chinese friends would consider the vacation a miserable waste of time.  They may prefer a day filled with taking photos of an outdoor mall displaying a new queen size bed and a mascot if it ended with some delicious fresh fish and seafood. 

While I haven’t converted into becoming one of these ‘foodies’, I have listened to enough tales of fantastic vacation destinations to know that Xiamen China is a highly desirable spot to spend a weekend.  So, we set off on the short 1 1/2 hour flight to Xiamen a week ago.  We arrived at night, picked up at the airport by our hotel bellhop holding a sign with our names in Chinese.  Of course, it took a few minutes to realize this.  Nie Nie (our housekeeper’s nickname for my ladyfriend) said she was giving the bellhop the look.  She stared him down.  Finally, he sauntered over and inquired by pointing to a name in his folder in English.  Indeed indeed – that’s us.  A short drive later, we find ourselves on a ferry heading across the bay to a small island for our hotel.  As it turns out, Nie Nie had booked a great hotel – the Garden (forgot the name??) – a large 4-star hotel on a bluff of  the ocean.  Of course, 4-star Chinese is the equivalent to a 2 1/2 star US hotel – like most of my experience, the hotel had all the makings of a truly special place.  However, the carpets were stained reminding me of my moveout investigation sophomore year at Madison Wisconsin.  Not a pretty scene.  The bed, bathroom were clean – and the facility was nice.  Definitely a metaphor for my perspective on China’s buildings, parks, restaurants, stores, and residences – get 95% to exceptional quality, enough to wow, then ignore the details and just do the cheapest thing to finish the job. 

The next day we awake to wander around the small streets and purchase handicrafts (Nie Nie’s passion).  The handicrafts and views of the ocean – especially the close proximity to Taiwan, proved to be a fun Saturday.  The island is famous for hosting dignitaries from history (Richard Nixon stayed in our hotel), as well as being the last stronghold of Chang Kai Shek (sp?) before fleeing to Taiwan.  Taiwan is a long swim across the straits – and the beaches are packed with Chinese tourists lined up for boat rides around the island, wearing orange lifevests. 

But, the local tourists are not here really for the boat rides or the handicrafts. 

They are here for the seafood.  Every 3rd vendor stall has tanks and tanks filled with exotic seafood.  If it lives in the sea, it is available for ordering and cooking.  Picking out your favorite live fish, shark, shell fish, eel, frog, soft-shell crab, turtle, skate, prawns, or lobster is cherished and celebrated.  That night, we stopped at one vendor restaurant to select our live prawns and clams – and donned our virtual bibs to eat nonstop on the sidewalk.  Admittedly, the food was damn tasty. 

On Sunday, we head down to the custom t-shirt shop to pick up our pairs t-shirt (yes, we ordered matching t-shirts with hand-painted figures on them) to fit in with the local tourists.  Admittedly reminds me of the poor guys that each year, as they look forward to going out on Halloween for some party and revelry, come to find out their girlfriend has swapped their gargoyle costume for a matching Raggedy Anne and Andy costume.  The rest of the night of Halloween you spend listening to your friends tease you about your yarn hair, fake freckles, and floppy clothes.  It’s cute.  Well, I have somehow changed from being the guy that teased my pal his feminine matching costume – to the guy with a matching t-shirt.  And, to make it even more ironic, I’m the one seeking it out.  hmm.  Next thing you know, I’ll be singing lovesongs walking down the streets of Yangshou hand in hand with my Nie Nie.

The weekend wrapped up across the short ferry ride back to the mainland walking in the most exotic marketplace I’ve seen in my life.  Everything living and non-living was for sale on the sidewalks.  It was the equivalent to Seattle’s Pike Place Market meets Indian Jones.  Every bird, fish, reptile, and several mammals were available for purchase as produce.  Quite disturbing. 

I once had the opinion that the Chinese eat such odd morsels because China had been so poor in the past 500 years.  However, it’s more clear to me now that it’s just part of the culture to eat the discarded or overlooked produce from Western palates: pig feet, chicken feet, cow intestine, duck neck, fish head, much much more.  When I ask my friends if they would prefer a chicken breast over chicken feet – given that they were both available in a buffet (same price) – many choose chicken feet.  I don’t understand this, and likely never will.  I also don’t understand the enjoyment of eating food with bones and spitting the discards on the table in front of you – a common occurrence in 5-star Chinese restaurants.  When asked why the chef doesn’t remove fish bones, I’m told it tastes better.  hmm.  Alas, I am clearly not Chinese.

I recently went to Moganshan, China with a few friends.  While there, we stayed at the Moganshan hotel on top of the mountain.  Next door, is the Lodge - a cool, rustic restaurant/pub with a fireplace.  Unfortunately, the Lodge and the hotel had forgotten to pay their heating bill...and in both places, you could see your breath!  I don't know if I've ever slept with a knit hat and gloves on, but this time I did it successfully.  The Lodge (www.moganshanlodge.com) is run by a gentleman from Wales.  On his brochure, he has a map of a recommended hike - thru the bamboo forest and along the edge of the mountain range.  Unfortunately, his map is so grossly off, we found ourselves in a bit of a pickle.  After 6 1/2 hours of hiking, we were faced with the reality that we either need to find a taxi in this desolate place or hike thru the evening, ascending 2500 feet or so.  We lucked out - and found a taxi, just as the temperatures were starting to drop again.

The forest itself is stunning - and captured in the flying/fighting scene in Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon.  Bamboo after bamboo and soft leave-covered ground.  In addition, some of the views in Moganshan are breath-taking looking across the mountains.

Interesting article about Obama inauguration coverage in China.  Let’s be clear: it was on at 1am in the morning – and most folks that watched it were expats.  This doesn’t mean my Chinese friends weren’t interested – it was more timing.  In fact, I’m surprised how many Chinese friends have asked me about the new president – and my opinion.  In fact, in general, I believe there is more opinion on American politics from Chinese citizens vs. Chinese politics.  And, without fail, every Chinese friend has mentioned that they believed Bush seemed, um, not smart.  “Ben dan” is the Chinese word for Bush…

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/28768271

The photo shows a Beijing bar with the inauguration.  Interesting that the bar is showing a satellite feed of CNN, yet the article talks about state-run TV, CCTV, making edits to his speech.